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Bamboo lycra vs cotton knit: a guide to choosing the right knit fabric

Bamboo Lycra vs Cotton Knit: Which Knit Fabric Should You Choose?

A plain-English guide to the knit fabrics we print on, what each feels like, and which one to choose for your next project.

"Which knit should I choose?" is the question I get asked more than any other. With so many knit fabric options in our store, from bamboo lycra and cotton knits to French terry and ribbing, it's easy to feel overwhelmed. So here's my plain-English guide to the knits we print on, what each one feels like, and which projects it's best for.

What is knit fabric?

Knit fabric is made from loops of yarn (like a very fine knitted jumper), which is what gives it stretch. Woven fabric, like woven cotton or canvas, is made by weaving threads over and under each other, so it has little or no stretch. If your pattern says "for knit fabrics only", it's counting on that stretch for fit, so a woven won't work as a swap.

The knit fabrics we print on (and what they're best for)

Bamboo lycra

Bamboo lycra is soft, drapey and cool to wear, which makes it a favourite for Australian summers. It's beautiful for:

Knit 180, Knit 220 and Knit 260

These are our everyday cotton-style knits, and the number tells you the weight: the higher the number, the thicker and more structured the knit. As a general guide:

  • Knit 180: lighter weight, lovely for summer tees, singlets and twirly dresses.
  • Knit 220: the all-rounder. Great for kids' clothes, tees, leggings and dresses.
  • Knit 260: heavier and more stable, so it's great for leggings, pants and anything that needs to hold its shape.

Knit 180, Knit 220 and Knit 260 compared: the higher the number, the heavier and more structured the knit

French terry and brushed French terry

French terry has a smooth face and little loops on the back, so it's soft, breathable and slightly heavier than a jersey. It's perfect for jumpers, track pants, hoodies and cosy loungewear. Brushed French terry has a fluffier, warmer back, and our Extra Heavy French Terry is the one to choose for proper winter hoodies.

Ribbed knit and brushed single rib knit

Ribbing is ideal for cuffs, neckbands and waistbands, and it also makes gorgeous fitted tops and lounge sets.

Other specialty knits

We also print on cotton waffle knit (lovely textured loungewear and baby blankets), scuba knit (structured skirts and dresses), double brushed poly (super soft, popular for leggings), rayon spandex jersey and swim lycra. You can compare every base on our fabric base cheat sheet.

Knit fabric swatches side by side: bamboo lycra, Knit 220, French terry and ribbing

Bamboo lycra vs cotton knit: which is better?

Neither is "better"; they just suit different makes.

  • Choose bamboo lycra when you want softness, drape and breathability: pyjamas, dresses, baby clothes and anything you'll wear in the heat.
  • Choose a cotton knit (180, 220 or 260) when you want a bit more structure: kids' play clothes, tees that hold their shape, and leggings.
  • Choose French terry when you want warmth and a cosy feel: jumpers, track pants and hoodies.

Which knit should you choose? Bamboo lycra for softness and drape, cotton knit for structure, French terry for warmth

Still can't decide? Our Touch & Feel sample pack comes with a digital base guide, so you can feel every base in your hands before you order.

Tips for sewing knit fabric

  • Use a ballpoint or stretch needle.
  • Use a stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or overlocker so your seams don't snap.
  • Don't stretch the fabric as you sew; let the feed dogs do the work.
  • Pre-wash knits before cutting, as some shrink a little on the first wash.

For the full rundown, read the ultimate guide to sewing with knit fabric and how to pick the right sewing needle.

Knit fabric FAQs

What's the best knit fabric for kids' clothes?

Knit 220 is a great all-rounder for play clothes. For pyjamas or sensitive skin, bamboo lycra is beautifully soft.

Which knit is best for leggings?

Knit 260 and double brushed poly are both popular for leggings because they have good recovery and coverage.

Do all your prints come on every knit?

Yes. Every print can be printed on any of our 35+ bases, so you choose the print first and the base second.

Our rounds close at midnight AEST on the 15th and the last day of every month. Once you know which knit you need, browse our most-loved prints and choose your base at checkout. And come say hi in our Facebook group, where 22,000+ makers share what they're sewing.

Happy sewing,
Missy x

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